Tung's Adventures: The Demilitarized Zone

Day 6 of our Korean adventure was all about learning the history of Korea and a quick step into North Korea. Visiting the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and the area known as Panmunjom was as much of a learning experience for me as well as site seeing. I'm not a great history buff and I must admit that I don't know that much about any historical wars that occurred in the past. However, on this trip, I learnt a great deal about the Korean war and how North and South Koreans co-exist with each other.

John had kindly organised a tour for us to take to the DMZ. Unfortunately our first choice was all booked out and there was a real fear that we would miss out altogether on seeing this famous divide between North and South Korea. Considering this was one of the most famous things about Korea along with Kim chi, we really wanted to see it. Luckily we did find a tour which would costs us about $100 for the days tour of the DMZ and Panmunjom area.

We arrived early to the Lotte hotel, where the bus was waiting. The tour group consisted of mostly Japanese tourists but there was a small contingent of about 20-odd English speakers, so luckily there was an English speaking tour guide. The trip to the DMZ area took about one and a half hours where to fill in the time, we were given strict instructions of what we could and couldn't do. This was mostly directed at when we could actually take pictures. Some of the more strict rules included; not standing up while in the DMZ area as you could be shot by Nth Korean snipers, no pointing as pictures could be taken by the Nth Koreans, edited on photoshop and used in propaganda messages to it people (an example is turning your index finger into the middle finger).

To fill in time, the tour guide gave us a history lesson on the Korean war. After being liberated by Japanese rule in 1943, Korea was split down the 38th parallel to divide Nth and Sth Korea. On early Sunday, June 25th, 1950, Nth Korean forces started their invasion of Sth Korea. Their troops were spear headed by Soviet made heavy tanks and they crossed the 38th parallel. The Sth Korean capital, Seoul, was captured in four days. Their well planned invasion overran and took control of two-thirds of South Korea within a short period of time. At this time, President Truman ordered some US troops back to Korea from Japan, but they were unable to stop the advancement of the invaders.

Nth Korea almost took total control of Sth Korea until a decision was made at the UN Security Council in July 1950 that condemned the actions of the Nth Koreans as aggressors and asked members of the UN to provide military and other assistance to Sth Korea. The US 15 other nations joined the war to repel the aggressors, these forces were lead by an American general named Douglas MacArthur.

The UN, US and Sth Korean forces repelled the Nth Koreans and Seoul was recovered on September 28. Under authorization given by the UN and US government, US and Sth Korean troops crossed the 38th parallel in pursuit of the fleeing Nth Korean troops. On October 19, the Nth Korean capital of Pyongyang was captured and the allied forces almost completely captured Nth Korea. At this point the Chinese became worried about the war spilling into China and so sent 150,000 troops in the middle of October. This began an entirely new war.

The UN forces withdrew from Nth Korea during the winter of 1950 and the Chinese and Nth Korean forces pushed southward, across the 38th parallel and once again captured Seoul on January 4, 1951. However, a counterattack by the UN forces in March pushed back the aggressors beyond the 38th parallel and a stalemate developed. The Chinese soon got tired of fighting a war where they had nothing to gain and the Nth Koreans felt vulnerable and wanted to end the war. They proposed a truce through the Soviet Union and talks began between the two sides in the summer of 1951. The talks progressed slowly and with the death of Joseph Stalin in early 1953, the Nth Korean were anxious to end the war. As a result the Korean Armistice was signed on July 27, 1953, and a four mile-wide demilitarized zone was established across the peninsula along the battle fronts. With this, the truce village of Panmunjom was put on the Korean map.

After all of that, we finally arrived at the first of several check points into the DMZ. At each check point, Republic of Korea soldier (ROK soldier) would board the bus and check everyone's passports. It's worth mentioning that not everyone can go and see the DMZ. For example, people with Vietnamese passports ... but I guess they can get in through the Nth Korean side as they hold tours too ... hey, everyone has to make money I guess. We also passed through tunnels filled with dynamite, a precaution to not allow Nth Korean forces through if they were to attack. They would basically detonate these tunnels if need be.

As we approached our first stop, the tour guide suddenly had a look of horror descend on her face. She informed us that there was an important meeting occurring in the blue houses that divide Nth and Sth Korea and that we could potentially not visit them today. Well, as you can imagine, after a long bus ride ... this didn't go over too well with some of the tourists. Some of them started abusing her and giving her a real hard time. Even though I was disappointed, I did feel sorry for her as after all, it wasn't her fault. But being the face of an organisation, sometimes you cop all the blame.

Anyway, we were ushered into the MAC building, where we were to sign a declaration and watch a video. The declaration was basically to deny any liability from the UN if something was to happen ... for example, if you somehow got shot ... you could not sue them. Hmmm, hahaha, makes me feel really safe. We also had to wear these UN badges at all times or again, we would be shot. The video was basically about hopes of uniting a divided Korea and that one day Nth and Sth Koreans can live in harmony as one country.

This is a monument honouring the 16 nations that provided soldiers to the ROK army during the Korean war.

After the video, we received welcomed news that the meeting had concluded and we were free to enter freedom house and the conference rooms. We were to make two lines and walk behind each other, not deviating from the line or stopping.

Inside the conference room were two ROK soldiers, one at the Nth Korean door and the other in the middle of the room. We were only given 5mins in here, so our photo opportunities had to be quick. This was the soldier at the Nth Korean door. Notice his Teak kwon do defensive stance and his Raybans!!!!

This was the dude in the middle of the room. Again in the defensive Teak-kwon do stance. You could have photos taken with them, but you can't talk to them, walk behind them ... or do any stupid poses. Notice my little blue UN badge, lose that and I'm a goner.

The concrete slab that divides Nth and Sth Korea. Guess which side is which??? The gravel side is Sth Korea and the dirt side is Nth Korea. So yep, while in the room, I was freely going from Sth Korea to Nth Korea.

From outside, we were escorted to a pagoda next to freedom house to take pictures of the other side. In the picture you see Nth Korea's counter part to Sth Korea's Freedom House, known as Panmun-gak. The Nth Korean government sponsors about 9,000 tourists annually, you can see some on the other balcony. Its funny, because we are both watching each other. The UNC on Sth Korea sponsors about 75,000 tourists each year.

Found a Korean soldier. He was on the guard tower on the other side. Looked like he had just finished a ciggie and was stamping it out.

There's four blue conference rooms building on the divide of Nth and Sth Korea. You can only see three in this picture. Another interesting little thing we were told was, notice the ROK soldiers standing by the buildings. You can see that they only have half their bodies exposed to the Nth Koreans and the other half is behind the building. We were told that this is so the Nth Koreans won't know what the other half of the body is doing. I don't know about you, but doesn't seem like he can do a whole lot with half his body.

Another ROK soldier in front of Freedom house.

This was was Nth Korean in their formation on their side, preparing to welcome some visitors.

There are two villages located inside the DMZ, the Sth Korean village is patriotically named "Freedom Village" or Taesong-dong, while the Nth Korean village is name "Propaganda Village" or Kijong-dong. Its called this for it so-called 6-12hr broadcasts over their speaker system of the praises of Kim Il Song, the great, god-like leader. The second reason is that no one lives there, only about 20 people workers that maintain the facilities as raise and lower the flag. Incidentally, as a sign of superiority, the Nth Korean flag pole in Propaganda village is 160 meters high, while the flag pole in Freedom village is 100 metres high.

This is the site of the tree stump where The Panmunjom Axe Murder Incident occurred. I might explain this in my next post. But it was a major incident in the history of Panmunjom.

This bridge was also significant in the history of the Korean war. This bridge was called "The Bridge of no return" and signified the spot where all prisoners of war (POW's) were repatriated after the end of the Korean war. POW's were marched to the middle of the bridge and had to make a decision as to which side they wanted to stay on. Once the decision was made, that person would never cross to the other side. Many Nth Korean POW's chose to stay in Sth Korea and therefore gave up their chance to ever see their families again.

Away from the intense Panmunjom area, we relaxed for some lunch and photos at another nearby village.

I found this quite poignant that there were two white doves (the sign for peace) on Freedom bridge.

Here was a wall that contained rocks from wars that have occurred over the years. Its know as "The Stones of Peace Wall".

This shrine monument represents the closest point the defected Nth Korean people have in praying for their Nth Korean loved ones. Many of them can no longer visit grave sites of their ancestors and so this monument was built by the Sth Korean Government to help the Nth Koreans mourn and prey for family. It overlooks into Nth Korea.

The afternoon was spent looking at other sites around Panmunjom. One of these was one of three tunnels that the Nth Koreans dug in readiness for maybe another attack on Sth Korea. So much for living in harmony right! The 1st tunnel was discovered on 15 November 1974, the 2nd found on 19 March 1975. The 3rd tunnel, which we visited and entered, was discovered on 17 October 1978. This tunnel held the greatest significance to the Sth Korean people as it was only 44kms from Seoul and basically meant that Nth Korean forces could storm Sth Korea in less than an hour. The tunnel was big enough to allow about 30,000 armed troops accompanied by heavy guns and equipment.

We could not take any pictures but basically we took a little railed vehicle down the tunnel, equipped with helmets as we would occasionally be close enough to hit the surrounding walls. This would not be recommended for people who have claustrophobia. Once at the bottom, we walked down the damp tunnel to the end, just before the Nth Korean side where some huge metal doors had been erected to prevent the Nth Koreans from coming through. When this tunnel was discovered by the Sth Koreans, the northies tried to cover their tracks by smearing black coal on the walls so that they could claim that they were digging for coal. Only problem was that there was no coal in those tunnel.

Just outside the tunnel was this tennis court, pretty ghetto looking. The best part of this court was that it was situated right next to an area filled with landmines. So to the left of the courts, where the trees are, is wired off to signify a landmine area. So I suspect lot of tennis balls were lost during play ... hehehe

A closer look at the wired off mine area!

Next was a visit to the train station that was meant to link train travel between Sth and Nth Korea. Both Government agreed to build the station but on the eve of the launch, the Nth Koreans pulled out of the ceremony without a valid explanation. George W was on hand to open the station and it went ahead. However, there is currently no travel through Nth Korea as yet. So at the moment it is being used a tourist point, where people can travel to but not leave the station as they don't have proper clearance.

Inside Dorasan station which is still brand spanking new. Incidentally, the architect that designed Seoul's modern airport also designed this train station.

Some guards protecting the exit of the train station. Serving the army is Korea is mandatory for all boys in Korea. The ages ranges used to be limited to between 18 to about 25 years old. However, with a greater number of Koreans travelling overseas for extended periods of time and lack of volunteers in the army, the upper age limit is steadily increasing to the mid 30's. One interesting fact is that if a girls enlists then one of her brothers is exempt from serving his military time. So, this lady up here must have a lucky brother.

After after history lesson of a day we wanted to see Seoul from a higher vantage point, and what better way to do that than from the top of Seoul Tower. Seoul tower is perched on top of a mountain in central Seoul. The tower from base to top is 237m high but on the mountain its actually 480m above sea level. To put that into context, Tokyo tower is 333m, the Rialto is 251m and The Eureka is 297m.